Koh Chang East Coast Road Trip: Quiet Places, Hidden Gems & Scenic Stops
Koh Chang's east coast: fishing villages, mangroves and waterfalls
Most visitors to Koh Chang never leave the busy west coast. Drive over to the east side and the island changes completely. There's little traffic and there are no big resorts, just fishing villages, mangroves, waterfalls and coffee shops by the sea. I Am Koh Chang describes the drive south from Dan Mai as: No hills, no traffic, just a sea of green.
This road trip runs from the ferry pier in the north down to Salak Phet and Long Beach in the far south-east. The stops are listed in order, with baht fees, food stops and map links for each.
- The east coast is quieter, not prettier. I Am Koh Chang says the scenery between the pier and Dan Mai is pleasant but not dramatic. The best views are around Salak Phet and the Long Beach road. The Bear Travel says most east coast beaches are rocky and turn swampy at low tide.
- Than Mayom's tier count differs. One source says four tiers and another says six levels. I Am Koh Chang says the upper falls need a guide to reach.
- Salak Phet mangrove parking differs. Bucketlistly lists ฿10 for a motorbike or ฿20 for a car. I Am Koh Chang says parking at the coffee shop next to the walkway costs ฿20.
- Some places may have closed. The Guide Koh Chang notes several shut or abandoned businesses along the route. Check opening times before you go.
- Halal food is very limited. The east coast has seafood restaurants and one vegetarian-friendly spot, The Spa Koh Chang. None are listed as halal.
Quick facts
| Detail | Info |
|---|---|
| Route | Ao Sapparot ferry pier to Salak Phet and Long Beach |
| Distance | About 20 to 25 km to the Salak Khok turning, plus about 7 km of road to Long Beach |
| Time needed | A full day |
| Road | Mostly flat. The Long Beach road is steep, with subsidence in places |
| Transport | Your own scooter or car. Public transport is limited |
| Fuel | Petrol station opposite The Spa Koh Chang, near Salak Khok |
| ATM | Next to the in-patient waiting area at Dan Mai hospital |
| Paid entries | Than Mayom ฿200, Salak Phet temple ฿20, Koh Ngam park fee ฿200 |
| Free stops | Klong Nonsi, Khiri Phet and Klong Neung waterfalls, Long Beach |
East coast road trip: stop by stop
1Ao Sapparot View Cafe
Just a couple of kilometres south of the ferry pier, this cafe makes a good first coffee stop. The Guide Koh Chang also mentions camping here. Traffic drops off sharply once you pass the piers.
2Dan Khao's Red Sand Beach
Dan Khao has a small beach with red, gritty sand. The Guide Koh Chang calls it peaceful but not award-winning. The Bear Travel describes the coarse red sand as unusual for Koh Chang. A few small resorts and homestays sit along this stretch.
3Dan Mai Village
Dan Mai was once Koh Chang's main settlement. I Am Koh Chang says it's worth a detour, not just a drive-through. Look for the old pier with great views (tread carefully, as it's dilapidated). There's also a small Chinese shrine with a painted pier and the village temple with 200-year-old trees.
Eat: Dan Mai Somtam (Isan food), Ban Chor Chamuang (eastern Thai food) or Kamon's Bakes.
4Klong Nonsi Waterfall
A gentle, tiered waterfall reached by a track behind the local government offices in Dan Mai. I Am Koh Chang lists it as free, with a concrete road since 2015. Stop for som tam at Jay Dao, on the corner of the turning. Look for its hanging baskets.
Price: Free
5Than Mayom Waterfall
Than Mayom is the east coast's best-known waterfall. Kings Rama V and Rama VII carved their royal monograms into the rocks over 100 years ago. The Bear Travel says it keeps the most water in the dry season. I Am Koh Chang calls the falls OK, but not spectacular. You'll need a guide to reach the hidden upper levels. There's also a pretty little beach nearby.
Price: ฿200 adult, ฿100 child. The Guide Koh Chang says a same-day ticket also covers Klong Plu Waterfall.
6Tara Resort Coffee Shop
A few minutes south of Than Mayom, the coffee shop at Na Koh Chang Tara Resort sits right by the sea. I Am Koh Chang says the dining room has a large hand-painted mural of Koh Chang. The Guide Koh Chang says its blue benches make a good stop.
7Ronnie's Organic & Baan Kafae
About 2 km after the village of Baan Klong Ta Khian, The Guide Koh Chang lists these coffee shops and diners. They serve coffee, food and shakes. It's a good place to rest before the final stretch south.
8The Spa Koh Chang
On the way down into Salak Khok, The Spa Koh Chang is a detox retreat in the mangroves. I Am Koh Chang says its restaurant serves vegetarian, healthy and raw dishes. It's the best meat-free lunch stop on the east coast.
Fill up with petrol at the station opposite.
9Salak Khok Fishing Village
At the only junction on this route, turn left for Salak Khok. It's a small fishing village built partly over the bay and partly among the mangroves. You can ride a traditional gondola boat through the mangroves for about ฿200 per person, or rent a kayak for ฿100 to ฿200 an hour. Stop for fresh seafood over the water.
10Salak Phet Village & Temple
Salak Phet is a quieter fishing village than Bang Bao, with homestays, seafood restaurants and a marina. I Am Koh Chang says the village temple has a full painted mural inside. Entry is ฿20, which goes towards upkeep. The original 140-year-old temple building nearby is now a small museum, though it isn't always open.
Price: ฿20 temple entry
11Salak Phet Mangrove Walkway (Red Bridge)
A paved road past the temple leads to a wooden boardwalk through the mangroves. I Am Koh Chang's favourite view is about halfway along. Go in the morning for calm water and reflections. Watch for loose planks.
Price: ฿10 to ฿20 parking
12Salak Phet Seafood & Pier
The road ends at Salak Phet Seafood, which has a pier with panoramic views across the bay. A footpath leads to Aoy's Little Farm & Bakery. Nearby, a large White Buddha statue is being built above the monastery. Only the base was complete in late 2025. It's free to visit, but dress modestly.
13Khiri Phet Waterfall
Khiri Phet is one of the easiest east coast waterfalls to reach. I Am Koh Chang lists it as about a 10-minute walk from the parking area, good for kids and swimming. It ends at plunge pools. There are no staff and no fee.
Nearby Klong Neung is the island's tallest waterfall, at about 120 m. It's a hard scramble up the riverbed with no clear path. Only go if you're fit and sure-footed.
Price: Free
14The Long Beach Road & Viewpoint
From Salak Khok, the road runs south through Jek Bae. The turn to Long Beach is past Jek Bae. I Am Koh Chang says the 7 km road clings to the hillside, with some of the island's best views. Stop at the viewpoint about 1 km before the concrete ends, by a small National Park office. It has fuel and cold drinks.
Drive carefully, as subsidence and small landslides are damaging parts of the road.
15Long Beach & the Naval Battle Memorial
Long Beach (Hat Yao) is a sheltered, palm-fringed crescent about 400 m long, with jungle behind it. I Am Koh Chang calls it peaceful but remote. The Treehouse is the only place for food and basic facilities. Plastic washes up in the rainy season until an annual clean-up.
A few hundred metres south, the road ends at Hat Yuthanavy, where a memorial marks the 1941 naval battle with the French. You can kayak to the small island of Koh Ngam offshore in 10 to 15 minutes.
Prices (I Am Koh Chang): kayak about ฿200, Koh Ngam National Park fee ฿200
East coast stops at a glance
| Stop | Type | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Ao Sapparot View | Cafe | Pay for drinks |
| Dan Khao | Red sand beach | Free |
| Dan Mai village | Old pier, shrine, temple | Free |
| Klong Nonsi Waterfall | Waterfall | Free |
| Than Mayom Waterfall | Waterfall, royal carvings | ฿200 adult, ฿100 child |
| Tara Resort coffee shop | Sea-view cafe | Pay for drinks |
| Ronnie's Organic, Baan Kafae | Cafes | Pay for food |
| The Spa Koh Chang | Vegetarian lunch | Pay for food |
| Salak Khok | Fishing village, gondola, kayaks | Gondola ฿200, kayak ฿100 to ฿200 per hour |
| Salak Phet temple | Mural, museum | ฿20 |
| Salak Phet mangrove walkway | Boardwalk | ฿10 to ฿20 parking |
| Salak Phet Seafood | Pier and bay views | Pay for food |
| Khiri Phet Waterfall | Waterfall, plunge pools | Free |
| Long Beach road viewpoint | Viewpoint | Free |
| Long Beach and Koh Ngam | Beach, kayak, island | Kayak ฿200, park fee ฿200 |
Where to stay on the east coast
I Am Koh Chang lists these typical high-season rates around Salak Phet.
| Place | Price per night |
|---|---|
| Sleepover Hostel (dorm) | From about ฿300 |
| Journey's End Homestay | From about ฿800 |
| Island View | ฿1,200 |
| Baan Chan Lay Homestay | ฿1,200 |
| Salakphet Resort | ฿1,600 |
| Mangrove Hideaway | ฿2,500 |
| Parama Resort | ฿2,700 |
| Nanai Resort | ฿3,000 |
At Long Beach, The Treehouse has basic seasonal huts for about ฿200 to ฿300 a night.
Suggested one-day route
MorningLeave the west coast early. Stop at Dan Mai village, Klong Nonsi Waterfall and Than Mayom Waterfall.
Late morningCoffee at Tara Resort, then lunch at The Spa Koh Chang. Fill up with petrol.
Early afternoonGondola ride at Salak Khok.
Mid-afternoonSalak Phet temple, the mangrove walkway and Khiri Phet Waterfall.
Late afternoonDrive the Long Beach road for the views, then head back before dark.
Tips for Malaysian travellers
- Rent a car if you're not an experienced rider. Destination Thailand recommends a car for the hilly road over to the east coast.
- Fill up with petrol near The Spa Koh Chang. Services are scarce further south.
- Bring cash. The Guide Koh Chang mentions an ATM at Dan Mai hospital.
- Plan your food. Halal options are very limited. Choose seafood, or vegetarian dishes at The Spa Koh Chang.
- Dress modestly at the temples and the White Buddha site.
- Head back before dark. The Long Beach road has landslide damage in places.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Starting late and running out of daylight.
- Running low on petrol south of Salak Khok.
- Riding the steep Long Beach road on a scooter without experience.
- Expecting white sand beaches. Most east coast beaches are rocky.
- Attempting Klong Neung Waterfall without proper shoes.
Sourced from The Guide Koh Chang East Coast, I Am Koh Chang's Ferry Pier to Dan Mai, Dan Mai to Salakkok, Long Beach and Salakphet Bay and Koh Chang Waterfalls pages, The Bear Travel, Bucketlistly and Destination Thailand.